She had a lifetime of training to prepare for her “big wave” moment. She was already a world-class surfer by her early teens. As Bethany has pointed out, It’s always humbling you, and putting you in your place.īethany knew this. The ocean is the reason the term “force of nature” exists. And from my perspective, here are a few takeaways as to why… Mastering Your Ocean and the Waves You Are Given Injury or no injury, she’s living her best life. Today, Bethany radiates happiness despite having been impacted by trauma. But others, like Bethany, use it as fuel. Some people faced with this type of trauma fall into a state of depression and hopelessness. She’s also gotten married, and started a family. Had not one, but two movies made about her life (the fictionalized “ Soul Surfer ,” and the documentary “ Bethany Hamilton: Unstoppable ”). In addition to continuing to surf competitively (and rack up honors), Bethany has also become a bestselling author. Since her accident, she’s done some incredible things. And ultimately, what drives her to succeed. So, how did Bethany go from lying in a hospital bed recovering from a terrifying injury to being back in the ocean 4 weeks later? I fell into a wall playing arena football, shattered my arm, and had to overcome my own obstacles. I’ve thought about Bethany’s struggle a lot, since it was only a few years later when I experienced my own life-changing and career-ending injury. You get ripped from what you love and you have to adapt to a new idea of life. So just imagine doing what you love every day. But it’s even more of a big deal when you’re a surfer, since you need your upper body strength for balance, and getting up on the board.
And man, that would be devastating for anyone. Then at 13, she was attacked by a shark and lost her left arm. Her future looked as bright as the sun at the beach. By the time she was 8, Bethany was already placing first in international competitions. When you grow up in Hawaii, getting out on the waves with a board is just as normal as riding bikes is for a midwestern kid like me. I was in college when I first heard Bethany’s story.īethany has been a competitive surfer for as long as she can remember. This one was an episode I was really looking forward to.
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